Catching Waves - Me, Brian and Brian

Someone please remind me why on earth was I getting up at 5:30 am on a Sunday?

As I walked downstairs and noticed my new surfboard and gear in a pile in the foyer, it all became clear in my mind. I was heading to LBI to catch some waves. No one could see it, but a smile formed on my face. It would not be my last smile of the day.

Lauren’s boyfriend Brian and I loaded up his truck with our surfboards and gear. While outside braving the chilly morning temperatures, we briefly chatted about the Stanley Cup Finals hockey game from the night before. It is a well known fact that guys anywhere in the world and at anytime of the day can converse about last night’s “game”. Shortly thereafter we piled into the truck and headed due east towards the Atlantic Ocean in search of some killer waves.

My mind raced back in time some 25 years ago remembering the first time I went skiing. Surfing seemed very similar to skiing in terms of the pre-event routine.  Like skiing, there is specific gear and supplies you need for the experience to be enjoyable.   As is the case with skiing, there is always this sense of urgency to get to the slopes early in the morning to get the best runs of the day.  I sensed this same feeling with surfing.  I couldn’t wait to get to the beach!

I glanced back at Lauren fast asleep in the cab portion of the truck. She was exhausted after working a Saturday night double shift at Rita’s. The last time our threesome was together was a skiing daytrip this past Christmas to the Poconos. On that occasion we were heading to Camelback Mountain to carve the slopes, now we were heading to the Long Beach Island to surf the waves.

Within 15 minutes our early morning small talk subsided and it was just the sounds of the Beach Boys filling the inside of Brian’s truck. Everyone had settled into their own head space possibly collecting their thoughts of how the day would unfold. Occasionally, we would notice something outside of the truck’s windows, but mostly we were all content just to let this glorious daybreak scenery roll on by like some video on a never-ending loop, while Brian Wilson and his band sang about an idyllic endless summer.

Suddenly, our beach destination became visible from the causeway bridge. My excitement was building. We arrived on the island and headed north to Surf City. Our destination was 16th street. It was here where Brian thought the waves would be ideal for me to break in my virgin surfboard.   We parked, unloaded our gear and changed into our wetsuits. The morning was quiet and full of promise. Grabbing our boards and backpacks we headed up the dunes.  The only sounds we heard were the waves crashing off in the distance.  It was if the beach was welcoming us to their special place.  We seemed to be tracing the footsteps of all those surfers who came before us.

We paddled out to a safe location in between the swells.  It was here where Brian gave me some quick pointers on balance and timing.  He showed me how to turn my board by kicking-out my feet and what to look for in the judging potential waves to surf.  Suddenly, it was time for me to ride my first wave.  Paddling hard I caught my very first wave but I was up only for a few brief moments before the wave took me down.   The next couple waves were vicious wipeouts as I either broke too late or stopped paddling too soon causing me to get a face full of salty sea water.  I slowly started to get my timing down.  The next few waves were successful rides.  I started looking straight ahead at the shoreline instead of staring directly downward at my surfboard.  I also started shuffling my feet on the board slightly more confident with my balance and body positioning.  My early morning waves were a series of alternating great runs and amazing wipeouts.  Even when I was thrust into the ocean, my board flying to the left or right of me, I could not stop smiling.  After a good 40 minutes I needed a break and headed to the shoreline.

I sat in my wetsuit at the water’s edge exhausted but elated, trying to catch my breath. On this quiet Sunday morning I was doing something I had dreamed about doing for decades. While the rest of these seashore town residents were busy sleeping, I was surfing the Jersey Shore. As if on cue, the sun started to break through the clouds illuminating the green and blue colored ocean waves breaking directly in front of me. A visual photograph formed in my mind’s eye. It was a photograph I did not soon want to forget. I sat mesmerized watching two seagulls cruise by just above the waves searching for breakfast, while Brian was slicing through the same waves off in the distance. I glanced back at Lauren wrapped in two blankets curled up like a ball quietly sleeping. Suddenly it hit me that today was Father’s Day. There was plenty for me to be thankful for today!

After a few more waves, Brian joined me. He nodded to me exiting the surf. He is a good kid. My daughter is lucky to have him in her life and so are me and Marie. We sat there in silence just watching the waves. Suddenly our age difference and the very different relationships we share with my only daughter ceased to exist. Today, we were just a couple of surfers, enjoying each other’s company sharing the ocean’s never ending waves.  I could get used to this new hobby.

After a brief rest, we looked at each other and motioned to the ocean, each of us wanting to catch a few more waves before we called it a day. We grabbed our boards and trudged down the slight embankment of sand. We zipped up our wetsuits and thrust our boards into the shallow waves. Within a few minutes we were laying on the top of our surfboards paddling out to the deeper waves.  I pulled myself up straddling the board between my legs gazing out at the horizon. It was then I felt that feeling that all surfers (even novices like me) come to understand. Like the skier at the top of mountain, there is that brief feeling of excitement and unknown before you throw yourself down the hill. 

Brian quickly caught the first wave and he was off heading towards the beach carving the ocean waters. I watched in awe as he was twisting and turning in the wave. I gazed back and found my wave slowly forming off in the distance. I layed down on my board and started paddling like my life depended on it. I could feel the wave getting close and I realized my moment was now or never. I started to rise, the board fully supporting my weight. Suddenly the wave changed as waves are often known to do. I could feel my body start to wobble, I held on slightly changing my body position (crouching lower in my stance) now moving in sync with the moving wave. I was still on the board. I rode that wave to the end.  I was thrilled!

Being an experienced skier, I know that feeling when you want to finish the day on a great run. Having battled that last wave staying on my board until the end, I knew this was my last run. I looked back at Brian who had been watching the whole time. From the shoreline, I signaled “thumbs-up”, with Brian returning my gesture back to me. To the casual observer on the beach it probably appeared to be an old guy wave.  In my mind, it was outta sight!

Bouncing out of the water like a teenager of Brian’s age, I could not stop smiling. Lauren was still sleeping on the blanket when I approached. “Hey Laur, did you see that one?” I knew she had not. She turned over still half asleep and asked “Why are you smiling?” “You should have seen that one”, I shouted. To which she replied, “I’m glad you’re having a great time”. Part of me wondered why I had waited this long to try this sport, while another part of me was glad I finally took the plunge!  I was beyond stoked!

Later that day, we walked along the strand just killing some time, window-shopping at the various beach stores when we happened upon the South-End Surf ‘N Paddle Shop.  Inside we were cheerily greeted by the store’s owner.  Ken was approximately 60 years old, tanned and trim with bushy blonde hair and an outgoing personality.  Ken asked us if we surfed to which Marie responded “My husband did this morning for the first time”.  Immediately Ken wanted to know all the intimate details.  Where did I surf?  How were the waves?  I quickly explained that I’m a newbie to this sport.  High-fiving me, he welcomed me to the LBI Surfers Club.  He quickly pointed out some locations on the island where the locals like to shred.   I just met this guy, but suddenly I felt like I was part of the larger surfer community.  The feeling was very welcoming…..

Admittedly, I have a long way to progress with my new hobby.  But it is safe to say that I really dig this ocean experience.  It combines many of the things that currently interest me and bring me happiness, including my love of athletics, nature, and of course the beach.

If you find yourself down the beach this summer, look for me riding those Jersey Shore waves.  I’ll be the middle-aged guy with the teenager’s smile.

I can now fully appreciate that classic Beach Boys lyric: “Catch a wave and you’re sitting on top of the world”

How true and so doggone outta sight!

Thanks, Brian Glodowski and Brian Wilson.

Surf’s Up

Long Beach Island

June 2013

P.S.  Special thanks to Greg at Surfers Supplies in OCNJ for getting me on this Peter Pan board!